Ceramide NP, Cholesterol and Behenic Acid Complex

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about the ceramide NP, cholesterol, and behenic acid complex. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: This complex combines the three main lipid families of the skin barrier — a ceramide (Ceramide NP), cholesterol, and a fatty acid (behenic acid) — in about a 3:1:1 ratio. In ORY^® products, it helps support the skin’s moisture barrier so skin feels soft, smooth, and comfortable.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has found each component safe in cosmetics: ceramides and cholesterol as used, and fatty acids including behenic acid when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. CIR has not reviewed this specific complex.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of ceramides.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1986). Final report on the safety assessment of cholesterol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 5(5), 491–516 (conclusion reaffirmed in Raj, P., et al. (2025). Re-review summary of cholesterol. International Journal of Toxicology, 44(3 Suppl), 129S–132S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818609141922
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of cholesterol.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of fatty acids and fatty acid salts as used in cosmetics (final report, including behenic acid). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/facids042019finalrep.pdf
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of fatty acids.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: The complex is a pre-blended lipid concentrate, usually in a caprylic/capric triglyceride or ester carrier: Ceramide NP (about 3 parts), cholesterol (about 1 part), and behenic acid, a long-chain (C22) fatty acid (about 1 part).

Verification: Supported. The ratio follows barrier research in mice. ORY^® specifies plant- or fermentation-derived cholesterol for vegan products.

Citations:

- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., Thornfeldt, C. R., & Elias, P. M. (1996). Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 1096–1101. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
  - What it shows: Mouse study of optimized lipid ratios.
- Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
  - What it shows: Describes barrier lipids.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: The complex suits all skin types and is especially helpful for dry skin.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Dry and atopic skin has been found to contain fewer ceramides. This explains why barrier lipids are used in moisturizers; ORY^® products are not intended to treat eczema or atopic dermatitis.

Citations:

- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
  - What it shows: Ceramide levels in atopic skin (a medical condition).
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
  - What it shows: Review of ceramides.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, the complex helps damaged hair feel smoother and softer.

Verification: Limited evidence. Reviews describe lipid-containing conditioners, but we found no clinical study of this complex on hair. ORY^® does not claim it repairs or strengthens hair.

Citations:

- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.

5. Benefits

Claim: The complex helps skin feel moisturized and supports the skin’s moisture barrier.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. In mouse studies, applying a single barrier lipid slowed barrier recovery, a complete ceramide–cholesterol–fatty acid mixture allowed normal recovery, and raising one lipid to a 3:1:1 ratio sped it up. A multi-ingredient cream designed to mimic the skin’s moisturizing system increased hydration in people. These are animal and formulation studies, not trials of this exact complex.

Citations:

- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
  - What it shows: Mouse study: single lipids vs. complete mixtures.
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., Thornfeldt, C. R., & Elias, P. M. (1996). Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 1096–1101. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
  - What it shows: Mouse study of the 3:1:1 ratio.
- Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
  - What it shows: Clinical hydration study of a multi-ingredient cream.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: The complex is used in ORY^® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in syndet and conditioner bars.

Verification: Supported. It is not used in cold-process soap.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	1–5% concentrate	Barrier creams and lotions, night, eye, and hand creams, and balms.
Haircare	0.5–3% concentrate	BTMS conditioners, masks, and leave-ins.
Handmade Soap line	0.5–1%	Syndet and conditioner bars only.
Cosmetics	0.5–3%	Foundations, lip balms, lipsticks, and cream sticks.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
  - What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: A complete set of skin-identical barrier lipids, each with a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. Based on barrier research and CIR review.

Citations:

- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., Thornfeldt, C. R., & Elias, P. M. (1996). Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 1096–1101. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
  - What it shows: Lipid ratio research.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

8. Cons

Claim: The complex is costly, needs heat to process, and its key research was in animals.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Cost. A premium ingredient.
- Heat processing. Must be added to a hot oil phase and cooled with stirring.
- Cholesterol source. Must be specified as plant- or fermentation-derived for vegan products.
- Animal research. The ratio findings come from mouse studies.

Citations:

- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
  - What it shows: Mouse study.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1986). Final report on the safety assessment of cholesterol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 5(5), 491–516 (conclusion reaffirmed in Raj, P., et al. (2025). Re-review summary of cholesterol. International Journal of Toxicology, 44(3 Suppl), 129S–132S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818609141922
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is not used in cold-process soap. Syndet, lotion, shampoo, and conditioner bars that contain it are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2019). Safety assessment of fatty acids and fatty acid salts as used in cosmetics (final report, including behenic acid). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/facids042019finalrep.pdf
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1986). Final report on the safety assessment of cholesterol. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 5(5), 491–516 (conclusion reaffirmed in Raj, P., et al. (2025). Re-review summary of cholesterol. International Journal of Toxicology, 44(3 Suppl), 129S–132S). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915818609141922
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., Thornfeldt, C. R., & Elias, P. M. (1996). Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 1096–1101. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
- Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

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Ceramide NP, Cholesterol and Behenic Acid Complex

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines