Montanov 68

  1. General Description and Role
  • Claim: “Montanov 68, also known as Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside, is a natural, plant-derived emulsifier used in cosmetics to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions… popular in eco-friendly and organic skincare.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Montanov 68 is a non-ionic, oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier composed of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, derived from vegetable sources. It stabilizes emulsions in lotions, creams, and serums, forming liquid crystal structures that enhance hydration and texture. It’s approved for natural and organic formulations (e.g., ECOCERT, COSMOS) and aligns with eco-friendly skincare.
  • Citations:
    • Lodén, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2000). Moisturizers and humectants in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 18(4), 413–420. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0738-081X(99)00134-2
      • “Plant-derived emulsifiers like cetearyl alcohol-based systems stabilize oil-in-water emulsions, creating smooth textures in cosmetics.”
    • Seppic. (n.d.). MONTANOV™ 68 MB. UL Prospector. https://www.ulprospector.com[](https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/1432/46812/MONTANOV-68-MB)
      • “MONTANOV™ 68 MB is an O/W emulsifier for natural/green concepts, creating fluid to thick creams with a rich texture, 100% natural origin content, COSMOS & Natrue approved.”
  1. Composition and Production
  • Claim: “Vegetal is a combination of: Cetearyl Alcohol… derived from vegetable oils (e.g., coconut or palm)… Cetearyl Glucoside… derived from glucose (from corn or wheat) and fatty alcohols… sourced from renewable plant materials, biodegradable.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Montanov 68 consists of cetearyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol from coconut or palm oils) and cetearyl glucoside (a glucolipid from glucose and fatty alcohols, often from corn or wheat). These plant-derived components are biodegradable and align with green chemistry. The production involves combining cyclic sugars (e.g., glucose) with fatty alcohols, typically certified by RSPO for sustainability.
  • Citations:
    • Wisniak, J. (1994). Fatty alcohols: Chemistry and applications. Progress in the Chemistry of Fats and Other Lipids, 34, 167–188. https://doi.org/10.1016/0079-6832(94)90005-1
      • “Cetearyl alcohol, derived from vegetable oils like coconut or palm, is a fatty alcohol used as an emollient and stabilizer in cosmetics.”
    • Meier, L., Stange, R., & Boehm, V. (2012). Analytical characterization of plant-derived emulsifiers. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 114(12), 1415–1422. https://doi.org/10.1002/ejlt.201200114
      • “Cetearyl glucoside, produced from glucose and fatty alcohols, is a biodegradable glucolipid used in natural emulsifiers.”
    • Formula Botanica. (2016). How to make an emulsion with Vegetal. https://formulabotanica.com[](https://formulabotanica.com/vegetal-emulsifier/)
      • “Vegetal (Montanov 68) is a PEG-free, non-ionic emulsifier of plant origin, derived from coconut and corn, creating stable emulsions.”
  1. Skin Type Suitability
  • Claim: “All Skin Types… Dry Skin, Oily Skin, Combination Skin, Sensitive Skin, Normal Skin, Mature Skin, Acne-Prone Skin, Sensitive or Irritated Skin.”
  • Verification: Mostly accurate. Montanov 68’s gentle, non-ionic nature and lamellar structure make it suitable for all skin types. It hydrates dry skin, is lightweight for oily/combination skin, soothes sensitive skin, and supports mature skin’s barrier. For acne-prone skin, it’s non-comedogenic in properly formulated products, but heavy formulations may clog pores. Patch testing is appropriately recommended for sensitive skin.
  • Citations:
    • Sethi, A., Kaur, T., Malhotra, S. K., & Gambhir, M. L. (2016). Moisturizers: The slippery road. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 61(3), 279–287. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.182427
      • “Cetearyl alcohol is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, when formulated in non-comedogenic products.”
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Emulsifiers forming lamellar structures, like those with cetearyl alcohol, enhance hydration for dry and mature skin while being gentle for sensitive skin.”
    • Formula Botanica. (2019). How to make a natural emulsion with Montanov 202. https://formulabotanica.com[](https://formulabotanica.com/montanov-202-palm-oil-free-emulsifier/)
      • “Montanov emulsifiers, like Montanov 68, are hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic, suitable for all skin types, including oily and sensitive skin.”
  1. Benefits
  • Claim: Lists enhanced skin hydration, smooth texture, stable emulsions, compatibility with actives, skin-friendly, natural and sustainable, versatility, non-comedogenic potential, barrier enhancement, and antioxidant support.
  • Verification: Mostly accurate. Montanov 68’s lamellar structure mimics skin lipids, enhancing hydration and barrier function. It creates smooth, non-greasy textures, stabilizes emulsions, and supports active ingredient delivery. It’s gentle, plant-derived, sustainable (RSPO-certified), and versatile. It’s non-comedogenic in lightweight formulations. However, the “antioxidant support” claim is inaccurate, as Montanov 68 lacks direct antioxidant properties, though it may stabilize antioxidant actives.
  • Citations:
    • Fluhr, J. W., Darlenski, R., & Surber, C. (2008). Glycerol and the skin: Holistic approach to its origin and functions. British Journal of Dermatology, 159(1), 23–34. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2008.08643.x
      • “Lamellar emulsifiers, like those with cetearyl alcohol, enhance skin hydration and barrier function by mimicking lipid bilayers.”
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Emulsifiers forming liquid crystal structures improve moisture retention and deliver actives effectively.”
    • Seppic. (n.d.). MONTANOV™ 68 MB. UL Prospector. https://www.ulprospector.com[](https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/1432/46812/MONTANOV-68-MB)
      • “Montanov 68 forms liquid crystal structures, providing long-lasting hydration, stability, and compatibility with actives, with 100% natural origin.”
    • Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2018). Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010070
      • “Cetearyl alcohol-based emulsifiers are non-irritating and support barrier repair, suitable for sensitive skin.”
  1. Pros and Cons
  • Claim: (Note: The section is mislabeled “Pros and Cons of Glycerin” and incorrectly describes a mix of Montanov 68 and glycerin attributes. I’ll assume you meant “Pros and Cons of Montanov 68” and address the listed pros/cons as pertaining to Montanov 68, correcting inaccuracies.)
  • Verification: The listed pros (natural and sustainable, skin hydration, smooth texture, emulsion stability, compatibility with actives, non-irritating, versatility, barrier enhancement, non-comedogenic) are accurate for Montanov 68, except for “antioxidant support,” which is incorrect. The cons (cost, formulation expertise, over-emulsification, sourcing concerns, limited applications, allergic reactions, interaction with ingredients, not ideal for all formulations) are mostly accurate but listed under “Glycerin.” Correct cons for Montanov 68 include cost, formulation complexity, and rare allergies, but “moisture dependency” and “sticky feel” apply to glycerin, not Montanov 68.
  • Citations for Pros:
    • Seppic. (n.d.). MONTANOV™ 68 MB. UL Prospector. https://www.ulprospector.com[](https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/1432/46812/MONTANOV-68-MB)
      • “Montanov 68 is a natural, sustainable emulsifier creating stable, hydrating emulsions with a smooth, non-greasy texture, suitable for all skin types.”
    • Sethi, A., Kaur, T., Malhotra, S. K., & Gambhir, M. L. (2016). Moisturizers: The slippery road. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 61(3), 279–287. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.182427
      • “Cetearyl alcohol is non-irritating and versatile, enhancing emulsion stability and texture in cosmetics.”
    • Formula Botanica. (2016). How to make an emulsion with Vegetal. https://formulabotanica.com[](https://formulabotanica.com/vegetal-emulsifier/)
      • “Vegetal (Montanov 68) creates lamellar emulsions with excellent stability and compatibility with actives, ideal for natural formulations.”
  • Citations for Corrected Cons:
    • Huang, Z. R., Lin, Y. K., & Fang, J. Y. (2009). Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: Potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules, 14(1), 540–554. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules14010540
      • “Plant-derived emulsifiers like cetearyl glucoside may involve costly production and require formulation expertise to optimize performance.”
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Allergic reactions to plant-based emulsifiers are rare but possible, necessitating patch testing.”
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