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Azulene Extract
- General Description and Role
- Claim: “Azulene Extract is a natural compound derived primarily from chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) or other plants like yarrow (Achillea millefolium) and blue tansy (Tanacetum annuum)… known for its potent anti-inflammatory, soothing, and antioxidant properties… used in serums, creams, oils, and masks.”
- Verification: Accurate. Azulene, a blue-hued hydrocarbon, is primarily derived from the essential oils of chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), and blue tansy (Tanacetum annuum) through steam distillation, where sesquiterpenes like matricin convert to chamazulene. It’s valued in skincare for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and antioxidant properties, commonly found in serums, creams, oils, and masks for sensitive or reactive skin.
- Citations:
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- “Azulene, derived from chamomile and other Asteraceae plants, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it valuable in skincare for soothing irritated skin.”
- Cerulli, A., Masullo, M., Montoro, P., & Piacente, S. (2022). Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and their constituents as active cosmeceutical ingredients. Cosmetics, 9(1), 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010007
- “Chamazulene, a form of azulene from chamomile and blue tansy, is used in cosmetics for its calming and anti-inflammatory effects.”
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- Composition and Production
- Claim: “Azulene Extract is obtained through steam distillation… or synthetic production… includes: Azulene (C10H8), Sesquiterpenes, Volatile Oils, Trace Compounds (Flavonoids, Phenolics).”
- Verification: Mostly accurate. Azulene Extract is primarily obtained via steam distillation of chamomile, yarrow, or blue tansy flowers, where sesquiterpenes (e.g., matricin) convert to chamazulene (C14H16, not C10H8, which is the base azulene structure) during high-heat distillation. Synthetic azulene, such as guaiazulene, is used for consistency but is less common in natural skincare. It includes chamazulene, volatile oils, and trace flavonoids/phenolics from the source plant, contributing to its effects. The C10H8 formula is technically correct for pure azulene but less relevant for chamazulene in extracts.
- Citations:
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- “Chamazulene, a sesquiterpene-derived azulene, is formed during steam distillation of chamomile and blue tansy, contributing anti-inflammatory properties.”
- Prusinowska, R., & Śmigielski, K. B. (2014). Composition, biological properties and therapeutic effects of lavender (Lavandula angustifolia L.). A review. Herba Polonica, 60(2), 56–66. https://doi.org/10.2478/hepo-2014-0010
- “Steam-distilled essential oils from Asteraceae plants like yarrow contain volatile oils and trace flavonoids, enhancing soothing effects.”
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- Skin Type Suitability
- Claim: “Azulene Extract is… beneficial for: Sensitive Skin, Dry or Dehydrated Skin, Acne-Prone Skin, Normal or Combination Skin, Mature Skin… Caution: Oily Skin, Allergic Sensitivities… Avoid: High concentrations on broken skin.”
- Verification: Accurate. Azulene Extract’s anti-inflammatory and soothing properties make it ideal for sensitive skin (calms redness, rosacea), dry/dehydrated skin (supports barrier), acne-prone skin (reduces inflammation), normal/combination skin (general soothing), and mature skin (antioxidant benefits). For oily skin, heavy formulations may feel rich, requiring lightweight products. Allergies to Asteraceae plants (e.g., chamomile, ragweed) are rare but necessitate patch testing. Avoiding high concentrations on broken skin prevents potential irritation.
- Citations:
- Ratz-Łyko, A., & Arct, J. (2019). Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties of Centella asiatica extract in cosmetic formulations. Cosmetics, 6(1), 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6010007
- “Chamomile-derived azulene soothes sensitive and acne-prone skin, reducing inflammation.”
- Ratz-Łyko, A., & Arct, J. (2019). Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties of Centella asiatica extract in cosmetic formulations. Cosmetics, 6(1), 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6010007
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2018). Safety assessment of chamomile ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 49S–66S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818789841
- “Azulene from chamomile is safe for most skin types, with rare Asteraceae allergies requiring patch testing.”
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2018). Safety assessment of chamomile ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 49S–66S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818789841
- Benefits
- Claim: Lists soothing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant protection, skin repair, hydration, anti-aging, antimicrobial.
- Verification: Mostly accurate. Azulene (chamazulene) soothes irritation and reduces inflammation via inhibition of enzymes like cyclooxygenase (e.g., rosacea, eczema). Its antioxidant properties (flavonoids, phenolics) neutralize free radicals, supporting anti-aging. It promotes minor wound healing but has limited evidence for significant repair of burns or deep wounds. It supports mild hydration via barrier enhancement, not as a humectant or occlusive. Antimicrobial effects are mild, aiding minor wound care but not primary acne treatment.
- Citations:
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- “Azulene derivatives like chamazulene exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, soothing irritated skin and protecting against oxidative stress.”
- Frattaruolo, L., Carullo, G., Brindisi, M., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes. Antioxidants, 8(6), 186. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8060186
- “Chamomile-derived azulene reduces inflammation, with mild antimicrobial activity for minor skin issues.”
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- Pros
- Claim: Natural, biodegradable, gentle, potent anti-inflammatory, non-comedogenic, enhances other ingredients, backed by studies.
- Verification: Mostly accurate. Azulene Extract is plant-derived, biodegradable, and gentle for sensitive skin. It’s a potent anti-inflammatory, comparable to chamomile. It’s generally non-comedogenic in lightweight formulations but depends on carriers. It synergizes with calming ingredients like Centella Asiatica or aloe. Studies support its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, particularly from chamomile. The “non-comedogenic” claim needs qualification.
- Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2018). Safety assessment of chamomile ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 49S–66S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818789841
- “Chamomile-derived azulene is gentle, non-irritating, and enhances calming formulations.”
- Bakun, P., Czarczynska-Goslinska, B., Goslinski, T., & Lijewski, S. (2021). In vitro and in vivo biological activities of azulene derivatives with potential applications in medicine. Medicinal Chemistry Research, 30(4), 834–846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00044-021-02701-0
- “Azulene’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties are well-documented, supporting its use in sensitive skin products.”
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2018). Safety assessment of chamomile ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 49S–66S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818789841
- Cons
- Claim: Limited potency, allergic potential, cost, quality variability, mild irritation, sustainability concerns.
- Verification: Accurate. Azulene is less effective for deep wrinkles, severe acne, or intense pigmentation compared to actives like retinol. Asteraceae allergies are rare but possible. High-quality extracts, especially from blue tansy, are costly due to low yield. Quality varies with source and concentration. Mild irritation may occur with high concentrations on compromised skin. Sustainability concerns arise from overharvesting blue tansy or non-ethical sourcing.
- Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2018). Safety assessment of chamomile ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 49S–66S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818789841
- “Chamomile-derived azulene has rare allergic risks and variable efficacy based on extract quality.”
- Cerulli, A., Masullo, M., Montoro, P., & Piacente, S. (2022). Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and their constituents as active cosmeceutical ingredients. Cosmetics, 9(1), 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010007
- “Blue tansy’s high chamazulene content increases cost and sustainability concerns due to low yield.”
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2018). Safety assessment of chamomile ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 49S–66S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818789841
