Licorice extract comes from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, a legume native to parts of Europe and Asia. Known for its sweet flavor in candy, it’s also a skincare gem prized for its brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In beauty products, it’s often called licorice root extract and appears in serums, creams, toners, or masks to tackle pigmentation and redness.
What is it Made of?
The extract is derived by boiling or solvent-extracting the plant’s roots, concentrating its active compounds. Key players include:
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- Glabridin: A flavonoid that inhibits tyrosinase (an enzyme in melanin production), fading dark spots.
- Glycyrrhizin/Glycyrrhizic Acid: An anti-inflammatory compound that soothes irritation.
- Liquiritin: Antioxidant that disperses melanin clusters.
- Licochalcone A: Another antioxidant with calming and oil-regulating effects.
- Flavonoids: Protect against free radicals and UV damage.
- Polysaccharides: Offer mild hydration.
- Phytoestrogens: Support skin elasticity and hydration.
Best Skin Type for Using It:
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- Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: Great. Reduces oiliness, calms acne inflammation, and fades post-breakout marks.
- Sensitive Skin: A win. Soothes redness and irritation without harshness.
- Dry Skin: Good with hydration support—pairs well with moisturizers.
- Combination Skin: Balances nicely—targets oily zones and evens tone.
- Dull/Hyperpigmented Skin: Ideal. Brightens and fades dark spots effectively.
Benefits of Licorice Extract
Licorice extract delivers a glowy, calming boost:
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- Brightening: Reduces hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and melasma by curbing melanin production.
- Soothing: Calms redness, irritation, and inflammation (think rosacea or post-sun skin).
- Antioxidant: Shields against environmental damage and oxidative stress.
- Even Tone: Fades acne scars and sunspots for a uniform complexion.
- Hydration: Strengthens the skin barrier to lock in moisture.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Eases puffiness and sensitivity.
Pros and Cons of Licorice Extract
Pros:
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- Non-irritating alternative to hydroquinone or vitamin C for hyperpigmentation.
- Multifunctional (brightening + soothing + antioxidant).
- Safe for most skin types in topical formulations.
- Fights hyperpigmentation and melasma naturally.
- Gentle: Safe for most skin types, even sensitive ones.
- Natural: Plant-based with a solid traditional rep.
- Targeted: Excels at pigmentation and redness without overkill.
- Hydration: Strengthens the skin barrier to lock in moisture.
- Works well with other actives like niacinamide, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid.
Cons:
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- Results take time: requires consistent use for 4-8 weeks to see visible fading of dark spots.
- Potency Varies: Effectiveness depends on concentration and formulation.
- Limited Scope: Won’t tackle deep wrinkles or severe acne alone.
- Allergy Risk: Rare, but possible for those sensitive to legumes or related plants.
- Weak for Severe Pigmentation: Less potent than prescription-strength ingredients (e.g., hydroquinone).
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Licorice extract, derived from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, is rich in compounds like glabridin and licochalcone A that help reduce hyperpigmentation, calm inflammation, and protect against oxidative stress. Suitable for most skin types, it offers a natural, non-irritating alternative for brightening and soothing, especially in those with redness, dark spots, or sensitivity.
Disclaimer:
The information in this blog post is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical or dermatological advice. Always consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare provider before using licorice extract-based products, especially if you have sensitive, allergy-prone, or compromised skin, are pregnant, or have pre-existing skin conditions. Individual results may vary, and some users may experience rare allergic reactions, particularly if sensitive to legumes or Glycyrrhiza glabra compounds. Patch testing is recommended before use. The author is not liable for any adverse effects resulting from the use of licorice extract based on this information. Claims are based on peer-reviewed scientific research, but the efficacy of licorice extract can vary depending on formulation, concentration, and individual skin type.