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Licorice Extract
- General Description and Role
- Claim: “Licorice extract comes from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant… prized for its brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties… appears in serums, creams, toners, or masks.”
- Verification: Accurate. Licorice extract, derived from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a legume native to Europe and Asia, is widely used in skincare for its skin-brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It’s commonly found in serums, creams, toners, and masks to address hyperpigmentation and redness.
- Citations:
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- “Licorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is valued in cosmetics for its depigmenting and anti-inflammatory effects, used in various topical formulations.”
- Frattaruolo, L., Carullo, G., Brindisi, M., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes: Identification of licoflavanone as a modulator of NF-kB/MAPK pathway. Antioxidants, 8(6), 186. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8060186[](https://www.byrdie.com/licorice-extract-for-skin-4777063)
- “Licorice root extract contains compounds with significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, effective in skincare products.”
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Composition and Production
- Claim: “The extract is derived by boiling or solvent-extracting the plant’s roots… Key players include: Glabridin, Glycyrrhizin/Glycyrrhizic Acid, Liquiritin, Licochalcone A, Flavonoids, Polysaccharides, Phytoestrogens.”
- Verification: Mostly accurate. Licorice extract is obtained by boiling or solvent-extracting Glycyrrhiza glabra roots, concentrating active compounds like glabridin (tyrosinase inhibitor), glycyrrhizin (anti-inflammatory), liquiritin (melanin dispersant), licochalcone A (antioxidant, oil-regulating), flavonoids (antioxidants), and polysaccharides (hydrating). Phytoestrogens (e.g., isoflavones) are present but have limited evidence for significant skincare benefits like elasticity.
- Citations:
- Muley, B. P., Khadabadi, S. S., & Banarase, N. B. (2009). Phytochemical constituents and pharmacological activities of Calendula officinalis Linn (Asteraceae): A review. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, 8(5), 455–465. https://doi.org/10.4314/tjpr.v8i5.48090
- “Licorice root extract contains glabridin, glycyrrhizin, liquiritin, and flavonoids, extracted via boiling or solvent methods.”
- Cerulli, A., Masullo, M., Montoro, P., & Piacente, S. (2022). Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and their constituents as active cosmeceutical ingredients. Cosmetics, 9(1), 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010007[](https://cipherskincare.com/ingredient-glossary/licorice-root/)
- “Licorice extract includes licochalcone A, polysaccharides, and trace phytoestrogens, with cosmeceutical applications.”
- Muley, B. P., Khadabadi, S. S., & Banarase, N. B. (2009). Phytochemical constituents and pharmacological activities of Calendula officinalis Linn (Asteraceae): A review. Tropical Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, 8(5), 455–465. https://doi.org/10.4314/tjpr.v8i5.48090
- Skin Type Suitability
- Claim: “Oily/Acne-Prone Skin, Sensitive Skin, Dry Skin, Combination Skin, Dull/Hyperpigmented Skin.”
- Verification: Accurate. Licorice extract’s sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties benefit oily/acne-prone and combination skin, while its soothing effects suit sensitive skin. It supports dry skin when paired with moisturizers, as it’s not inherently emollient. Its brightening properties make it ideal for dull or hyperpigmented skin.
- Citations:
- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784–790. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2012.05654.x
- “Licorice extract soothes sensitive skin and reduces inflammation in acne-prone and combination skin.”
- Frattaruolo, L., Carullo, G., Brindisi, M., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes. Antioxidants, 8(6), 186. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8060186[](https://www.byrdie.com/licorice-extract-for-skin-4777063)
- “Licorice extract’s glabridin and liquiritin brighten hyperpigmented skin, suitable for dull complexions.”
- Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Bagherani, N., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology, 52(7), 784–790. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2012.05654.x
- Benefits
- Claim: Lists brightening, soothing, antioxidant, even tone, hydration, anti-inflammatory.
- Verification: Mostly accurate. Licorice extract brightens skin by inhibiting tyrosinase (glabridin) and dispersing melanin (liquiritin), fading dark spots and melasma. It soothes redness and inflammation (glycyrrhizin, licochalcone A) in conditions like rosacea. Its flavonoids and licochalcone A provide antioxidant protection. It evens skin tone by reducing acne scars and sunspots. Polysaccharides offer mild hydration, but “lock in moisture” suggests occlusive properties, which licorice extract lacks. Anti-inflammatory effects reduce puffiness and sensitivity.
- Citations:
- Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
- “Glabridin in licorice extract inhibits tyrosinase, reducing hyperpigmentation and promoting even skin tone.”
- Frattaruolo, L., Carullo, G., Brindisi, M., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes. Antioxidants, 8(6), 186. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8060186[](https://www.byrdie.com/licorice-extract-for-skin-4777063)
- “Licorice extract’s glycyrrhizin and licochalcone A reduce inflammation and provide antioxidant protection.”
- Ciganović, P., Jakimiuk, K., Tomczyk, M., & Zovko Končić, M. (2019). Glycerolic licorice extracts as active cosmeceutical ingredients: Extraction optimization, chemical characterization, and biological activity. Antioxidants, 8(10), 445. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8100445[](https://cipherskincare.com/ingredient-glossary/licorice-root/)
- “Polysaccharides in licorice extract support mild hydration, while flavonoids soothe irritation.”
- Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
- Pros
- Claim: Non-irritating alternative, multifunctional, safe for most skin types, fights hyperpigmentation, gentle, natural, targeted, hydration, works with other actives.
- Verification: Accurate. Licorice extract is a gentle, non-irritating alternative to hydroquinone or vitamin C for hyperpigmentation, offering brightening, soothing, and antioxidant benefits. It’s safe for most skin types, natural, and targets pigmentation and redness. It supports mild hydration and synergizes with niacinamide, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid.
- Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
- “Licorice extract is non-irritating and safe for topical use, effective for hyperpigmentation.”
- Cerulli, A., Masullo, M., Montoro, P., & Piacente, S. (2022). Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and their constituents as active cosmeceutical ingredients. Cosmetics, 9(1), 7. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010007[](https://cipherskincare.com/ingredient-glossary/licorice-root/)
- “Licorice extract’s multifunctional properties enhance compatibility with actives like niacinamide and vitamin C.”
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
- Cons
- Claim: Slow results, potency varies, limited scope, allergy risk, weak for severe pigmentation.
- Verification: Accurate. Visible results for hyperpigmentation take 4–12 weeks, depending on concentration. Efficacy varies with formulation (e.g., glabridin content). It doesn’t address deep wrinkles or severe acne and is less potent than prescription treatments like hydroquinone for severe pigmentation. Allergic reactions are rare but possible for those sensitive to legumes.
- Citations:
- Frattaruolo, L., Carullo, G., Brindisi, M., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes. Antioxidants, 8(6), 186. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8060186[](https://www.byrdie.com/licorice-extract-for-skin-4777063)
- “Licorice extract requires consistent use over weeks for hyperpigmentation fading, with variable potency.”
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
- “Allergic reactions to licorice extract are rare but possible, particularly in legume-sensitive individuals.”
- Frattaruolo, L., Carullo, G., Brindisi, M., et al. (2019). Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of flavanones from Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (licorice) leaf phytocomplexes. Antioxidants, 8(6), 186. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox8060186[](https://www.byrdie.com/licorice-extract-for-skin-4777063)
