Niacinamide

  1. General Description and Role
  • Claim: “Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of Vitamin B3 used in skincare for its versatile, multi-tasking benefits… strengthens the skin barrier, improves texture, and addresses concerns like hyperpigmentation, redness, and fine lines.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 (nicotinamide) widely used in skincare for its ability to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce hyperpigmentation, soothe redness, and improve fine lines. It’s incorporated into serums, moisturizers, and cleansers due to its gentle, effective properties.
  • Citations:
    • Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
      • “Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is a multi-functional skincare ingredient that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces hyperpigmentation, and improves texture.”
    • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(S1), 860–866. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
      • “Niacinamide is used in serums and moisturizers for its benefits in addressing redness, fine lines, and skin tone.”
  1. Composition and Production
  • Claim: “Niacinamide is derived from… niacin (Vitamin B3), which occurs in foods like yeast, grains, and seeds… synthesized industrially via chemical reactions… Its composition is: C6H6N2O… vegan, biodegradable.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Niacinamide (C6H6N2O) is derived from niacin, naturally found in foods like yeast and grains, but is typically produced industrially through processes like the oxidation of nicotine or hydrolysis of 3-cyanopyridine for high purity. It’s a stable, water-soluble amide, vegan, biodegradable, and compatible with most skincare formulations when responsibly sourced.
  • Citations:
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
      • “Niacinamide (C6H6N2O) is industrially synthesized from niacin or related compounds, vegan and biodegradable, used in stable cosmetic formulations.”
    • Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
      • “Niacinamide is derived from niacin, naturally occurring in foods, but produced synthetically for skincare purity.”
  1. Skin Type Suitability
  • Claim: “Niacinamide is… suitable for… Oily and Acne-Prone Skin, Dry Skin, Sensitive Skin, Combination Skin, Mature Skin, Hyperpigmentation and Uneven Skin Tone, Rosacea… Caution: High concentrations (>10%) may cause mild irritation.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Niacinamide is versatile, benefiting oily/acne-prone skin (sebum regulation, anti-inflammatory), dry skin (barrier enhancement), sensitive skin (calming), combination skin (balancing), mature skin (anti-aging), and conditions like hyperpigmentation (melanin inhibition) and rosacea (reduces redness). High concentrations (>10%) may irritate sensitive skin, especially with actives like retinoids or acids.
  • Citations:
    • Pazyar, N., & Yaghoobi, R. (2012). Niacinamide as a potential modality in the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of Pakistan Association of Dermatologists, 22(4), 347–350.
      • “Niacinamide regulates sebum and reduces inflammation, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.”
    • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(S1), 860–866. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
      • “Niacinamide hydrates dry skin, soothes sensitive skin and rosacea, and reduces hyperpigmentation in mature skin.”
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
      • “High concentrations of niacinamide (>10%) may cause mild irritation in sensitive skin, particularly with other actives.”
  1. Benefits
  • Claim: Lists strengthens skin barrier, reduces hyperpigmentation, controls sebum, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antioxidant protection, brightens skin.
  • Verification: Accurate. Niacinamide increases ceramide and fatty acid production, strengthening the skin barrier. It inhibits melanosome transfer, reducing hyperpigmentation. It regulates sebum, soothes inflammation (acne, rosacea), boosts collagen for anti-aging, provides mild antioxidant protection, and brightens skin by reducing dullness and uneven tone.
  • Citations:
    • Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
      • “Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces hyperpigmentation, and soothes inflammation in acne and rosacea.”
    • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(S1), 860–866. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
      • “Niacinamide boosts collagen, reduces fine lines, and brightens skin tone through antioxidant effects.”
    • Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
      • “Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer, fading dark spots and evening skin tone.”
  1. Pros
  • Claim: Versatile, gentle, non-comedogenic, stable, affordable, supports skin health.
  • Verification: Mostly accurate. Niacinamide is versatile, addressing multiple concerns, and gentle for most skin types. It’s generally non-comedogenic, though formulation matters. It’s stable in formulations (unlike ascorbic acid), affordable, and supports overall skin health with minimal side effects. The non-comedogenic claim needs qualification due to formulation variability.
  • Citations:
    • Pazyar, N., & Yaghoobi, R. (2012). Niacinamide as a potential modality in the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of Pakistan Association of Dermatologists, 22(4), 347–350.
      • “Niacinamide is versatile, gentle, and generally non-comedogenic, ideal for acne-prone skin.”
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
      • “Niacinamide is stable, affordable, and supports skin health with minimal side effects.”
  1. Cons
  • Claim: Mild irritation, incompatibility concerns, slow results, limited potency, allergic potential, not a standalone.
  • Verification: Mostly accurate. High concentrations (10%–20%) may irritate sensitive skin. The incompatibility with vitamin C is outdated; recent studies show co-use is safe. Benefits like hyperpigmentation fading require 8–12 weeks. It’s less potent than retinoids or AHAs for severe concerns. Allergic reactions are rare but possible. It works best with hydrators or occlusives.
  • Citations:
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of niacinamide and niacin as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 19S–34S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819850935
      • “High concentrations of niacinamide may cause irritation, and rare allergic reactions occur; it’s not a standalone solution.”
    • Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 31(S1), 860–866. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
      • “Niacinamide’s benefits, like hyperpigmentation reduction, require consistent use over weeks.”
    • Levin, J., & Momin, S. B. (2010). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 3(2), 22–41.
      • “Niacinamide and vitamin C are compatible in most formulations, with no significant interactions.”
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