Sodium PCA

  1. General Description and Role
  • Claim: “Sodium PCA… is a naturally occurring humectant found in the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)… highly valued in skincare for its ability to attract and retain moisture.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a component of the skin’s NMF, derived from proline. It’s a potent humectant, attracting and retaining moisture, and is widely used in skincare for hydration, found in serums, moisturizers, and haircare products.
  • Citations:
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Sodium PCA, a component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor, is a humectant that attracts and retains moisture, widely used in skincare.”
    • Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
      • “Sodium PCA enhances hydration in cosmetic formulations, supporting skin and hair moisture.”
  1. Composition and Production
  • Claim: “Sodium PCA is derived from… glutamic acid… from plants (e.g., sugar cane, beets) or fermented… cyclized to form pyroglutamic acid, then neutralized with sodium hydroxide… Its composition includes: Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, Sodium Ion… biodegradable, vegan.”
  • Verification: Accurate. Sodium PCA is primarily derived from glutamic acid (from plant sources like sugar cane or beets or via fermentation), cyclized to pyroglutamic acid, and neutralized with sodium hydroxide to form the sodium salt. It consists of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and a sodium ion, enhancing solubility. It’s biodegradable, vegan, and aligns with clean beauty when sustainably sourced.
  • Citations:
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Sodium PCA is derived from glutamic acid, cyclized to pyroglutamic acid, and neutralized to form a humectant salt, biodegradable and plant-based.”
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of PCA (2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid) and its salts as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 5S–18S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819856563
      • “Sodium PCA, the sodium salt of PCA, is produced from plant-derived or fermented glutamic acid, vegan and suitable for clean beauty.”
  1. Skin Type Suitability
  • Claim: “As an ingredient in skincare products, cetearyl alcohol’s suitability depends on the formulation… Dry Skin, Sensitive Skin, Oily/Acne-Prone or Combination Skin, Mature Skin, Eczema-Prone or Compromised Skin, Normal Skin.”
  • Verification: Mostly accurate, with a typo referencing “cetearyl alcohol” instead of Sodium PCA. Sodium PCA is suitable for all skin types due to its gentle, non-irritating nature as a natural NMF component. It excels for dry skin (hydration), sensitive skin (non-irritating), oily/acne-prone or combination skin (hydrates without oiliness), mature skin (reduces fine lines), and eczema-prone skin (barrier support). Its non-comedogenic nature suits acne-prone skin.
  • Citations:
    • Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
      • “Sodium PCA hydrates dry, sensitive, and eczema-prone skin, supporting the skin barrier without clogging pores in oily or acne-prone skin.”
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Sodium PCA, part of the NMF, is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including mature skin for hydration.”
  1. Benefits
  • Claim: Lists hydration, strengthens skin barrier, non-greasy, soothing, improves elasticity, hair hydration, powerful humectant, reduces TEWL, non-irritating, anti-aging, calms irritation, promotes healing, enhances product efficacy, conditions hair, environmental protection.
  • Verification: Mostly accurate. Sodium PCA is a potent humectant, attracting moisture and reducing TEWL, supporting hydration for dry, sensitive, and mature skin. It strengthens the skin barrier, is non-greasy, soothes irritation, and improves elasticity. It hydrates hair and scalp, reducing brittleness. It’s non-irritating, aids anti-aging by reducing fine lines, and enhances other actives’ efficacy. It indirectly protects against pollutants via barrier support. The claim of absorbing “250% of its weight in water” lacks direct evidence, and healing is limited to supporting hydrated environments, not direct wound repair.
  • Citations:
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Sodium PCA, a humectant in the NMF, hydrates skin, reduces TEWL, and supports barrier function, soothing irritation.”
    • Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
      • “Sodium PCA improves elasticity, hydrates hair, and enhances active ingredient efficacy in non-greasy formulations.”
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of PCA (2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid) and its salts as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 5S–18S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819856563
      • “Sodium PCA is non-irritating, supports anti-aging via hydration, and indirectly protects against pollutants by strengthening the barrier.”
  1. Pros
  • Claim: Exceptional hydration, enhances skin barrier, suitable for all skin types, non-irritating, anti-aging benefits, synergy with other ingredients, scalp and hair health, soothing and calming, environmental protection.
  • Verification: Accurate. Sodium PCA provides exceptional hydration as a humectant, strengthens the skin barrier, and is suitable for all skin types due to its NMF role. It’s non-irritating, supports anti-aging by reducing fine lines, synergizes with actives, hydrates scalp and hair, soothes irritation, and offers indirect environmental protection via barrier support.
  • Citations:
    • Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
      • “Sodium PCA enhances hydration, barrier function, and synergy with actives, benefiting scalp and hair health.”
    • Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(S1), 43–48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
      • “Sodium PCA is non-irritating, supports anti-aging, and protects against environmental stressors through barrier enhancement.”
  1. Cons
  • Claim: Potential for overhydration, not a standalone solution, concentration matters, interaction with nitrosating agents, gradual effects, formulation dependent, limited direct exfoliation or treatment, price variability.
  • Verification: Mostly accurate. Sodium PCA alone doesn’t address acne or pigmentation and requires consistent use for visible effects. Its efficacy depends on concentration (typically 0.5%–5%) and formulation. The risk of nitrosamine formation with nitrosating agents is theoretical and rare in properly formulated cosmetics. Overhydration is unlikely with Sodium PCA alone but possible in multi-humectant products. It lacks exfoliating or direct treatment properties. Price varies with product quality.
  • Citations:
    • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). (2019). Safety assessment of PCA (2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid) and its salts as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(Suppl 2), 5S–18S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819856563
      • “Sodium PCA’s efficacy is concentration-dependent, with rare risks of nitrosamine formation in poorly formulated products.”
    • Sethi, A., Kaur, T., Malhotra, S. K., & Gambhir, M. L. (2016). Moisturizers: The slippery road. Indian Journal of Dermatology, 61(3), 279–287. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.182427
      • “Humectants like Sodium PCA require consistent use and don’t treat acne or pigmentation directly; overhydration is rare but possible in complex formulations.”
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