Emulsifying Wax NF

  1. General Description and Role
Claim: “Emulsifying Wax NF is a non-ionic, vegetable-derived emulsifier used to create stable oil-in-water emulsions for cosmetic products… binds oil and water, preventing separation, and contributes to smooth texture.” Verification: Accurate. Emulsifying Wax NF is a non-ionic emulsifier that meets National Formulary (NF) standards, ensuring quality for cosmetic and pharmaceutical use. It is primarily vegetable-derived, combining cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions in products like creams, lotions, and conditioners. It prevents phase separation and imparts a smooth, creamy texture to formulations. Citations:
  • Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2018). “Safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol as used in cosmetics.” International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 5S–16S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818777630
    • “Cetearyl alcohol, a key component of Emulsifying Wax NF, stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions and enhances texture.”
  • Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2012). “Safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics.” International Journal of Toxicology, 31(Suppl 2), 169S–188S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444146
    • “Polysorbate 60 in Emulsifying Wax NF facilitates stable emulsions in cosmetic formulations.”
  • Barel, A. O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. I. (Eds.). (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed.). CRC Press.
    • “Non-ionic emulsifiers like Emulsifying Wax NF are widely used for creating stable oil-in-water emulsions.”
  1. Composition and Production
Claim: “Composed of cetearyl alcohol (plant-derived fatty alcohol) and polysorbate 60 (synthetic emulsifier)… exact composition varies slightly between suppliers… meets NF standards.” Verification: Accurate. Emulsifying Wax NF typically consists of cetearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol derived from plant oils (e.g., coconut, palm), and polysorbate 60, a synthetic emulsifier made from sorbitol and fatty acids. The NF designation ensures a standardized combination, though slight variations in ratios or minor additives (e.g., other polysorbates) may occur between suppliers. The INCI list confirms the exact composition for specific products. Citations:
  • Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2018). “Safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol as used in cosmetics.” International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 5S–16S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818777630
    • “Cetearyl alcohol in Emulsifying Wax NF is derived from vegetable oils, acting as a stabilizer.”
  • Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2012). “Safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics.” International Journal of Toxicology, 31(Suppl 2), 169S–188S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444146
    • “Polysorbate 60 is a synthetic emulsifier in Emulsifying Wax NF, ensuring emulsion stability.”
  • United States Pharmacopeia (USP). (2023). “National Formulary (NF) Monograph: Emulsifying Wax.” USP-NF Online. https://www.uspnf.com
    • “Emulsifying Wax NF meets standardized composition requirements, though supplier variations exist.”
  1. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: “Suitable for normal, combination, oily, dry, sensitive, dehydrated, or ultra-sensitive skin… non-greasy, hydrates without clogging pores, safe for sensitive skin.” Verification: Mostly accurate, with caveats. Emulsifying Wax NF is versatile, enabling formulations suitable for various skin types due to its ability to deliver both oil- and water-based ingredients. For normal, combination, and oily skin, it supports lightweight, non-greasy textures that hydrate without clogging pores. Dry skin benefits from its ability to incorporate moisturizing oils. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it due to its mild nature, but polysorbate 60 may cause irritation in rare cases, particularly for highly sensitive or reactive skin (e.g., severe eczema). Dehydrated or ultra-sensitive skin may benefit from hydration and barrier support, but patch testing is crucial to rule out sensitivities. Citations:
  • Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2018). “Safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol as used in cosmetics.” International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 5S–16S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818777630
    • “Cetearyl alcohol is safe and non-irritating for most skin types, including sensitive skin.”
  • Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2012). “Safety assessment of polysorbates as used in cosmetics.” International Journal of Toxicology, 31(Suppl 2), 169S–188S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444146
    • “Polysorbate 60 is generally safe but may cause mild irritation in highly sensitive skin.”
  • Lin, T. K., Zhong, L., & Santiago, J. L. (2018). “Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(1), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19010070
    • “Emulsifiers like those in Emulsifying Wax NF enable non-greasy formulations for oily and combination skin.”
  1. Benefits (Corrected from “Benefits of Sea Emulsifying Wax NF” to “Benefits of Emulsifying Wax NF”)
Claim: “Stable emulsions, moisturizing, versatile texture control, smooth application, hair care benefits, ease of use, skin health (reduces inflammation, supports eczema/psoriasis).” Verification: Mostly accurate, with caveats. Emulsifying Wax NF creates stable oil-in-water emulsions, preventing separation in products like creams and lotions. It enhances moisturization by delivering both water and oil-based ingredients, supporting skin hydration. Its versatility allows texture control (3–5% for lotions, 5–10% for creams), as noted in formulation science. It provides a silky, powdery feel for smooth application and absorption. In haircare, it moisturizes and nourishes hair in conditioners and balms, reducing dryness. Its ease of use stems from requiring no co-emulsifier and stability across pH and temperature ranges. The skin health claim (reducing inflammation, supporting eczema/psoriasis) is less direct, as benefits depend on the formulated product’s active ingredients, though improved hydration may indirectly aid these conditions. Citations:
  • Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2012). “Safety assessment of polysorbates.” International Journal of Toxicology, 31(Suppl 2), 169S–188S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444146
    • “Polysorbate 60 in Emulsifying Wax NF creates stable emulsions with smooth texture.”
  • Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2018). “Safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol.” International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 5S–16S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818777630
    • “Cetearyl alcohol enhances moisturization and texture in emulsions.”
  • Harry, R. G., & Rieger, M. M. (2000). Harry’s Cosmeticology (8th ed.). Chemical Publishing Co.
    • “Non-ionic emulsifiers like Emulsifying Wax NF allow versatile texture control and are easy to use.”
  • Draelos, Z. D. (2010). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Wiley-Blackwell. https://doi.org/10.1002/9781444317657
    • “Emulsifiers support hydration and may indirectly aid eczema through barrier enhancement.”
  1. Pros
Claim: “Highly effective (stable emulsions), versatile (range of products), mild and safe, cost-effective, non-greasy.” Verification: Accurate. Emulsifying Wax NF is highly effective, creating stable, consistent oil-in-water emulsions, making it a standard choice for formulators. Its versatility supports a range of products (lotions, creams, balms). It is mild and deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel, with minimal irritation in studies. It is cost-effective compared to some natural emulsifiers (e.g., lecithin). Its non-greasy finish enhances product feel across skin types. Citations:
  • Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2012). “Safety assessment of polysorbates.” International Journal of Toxicology, 31(Suppl 2), 169S–188S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444146
    • “Polysorbate 60 ensures effective, stable emulsions with a non-greasy finish.”
  • Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2018). “Safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol.” International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 5S–16S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818777630
    • “Cetearyl alcohol is safe and mild, contributing to emulsion versatility.”
  • Barel, A. O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. I. (Eds.). (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (4th ed.). CRC Press.
    • “Emulsifying Wax NF is cost-effective and widely used for stable cosmetic formulations.”
  1. Cons
Claim: “Synthetic components (polysorbate 60), potential irritation (sensitive skin), environmental concerns (palm oil), not a natural wax, supplier variability.” Verification: Accurate, with caveats. Polysorbate 60 is a synthetic component, which may concern consumers seeking fully natural products; its ethoxylation process can introduce trace 1,4-dioxane, though regulated to safe levels. Potential irritation from polysorbate 60 is rare but possible in highly sensitive skin, necessitating patch testing. Environmental concerns arise from palm-derived cetearyl alcohol, as unsustainable palm oil production contributes to deforestation, though RSPO-certified sources mitigate this. It is not a natural wax like beeswax, but a processed emulsifier, which may disappoint purists. Supplier variability in composition can affect formulation outcomes, requiring test batches. Citations:
  • Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2012). “Safety assessment of polysorbates.” International Journal of Toxicology, 31(Suppl 2), 169S–188S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812444146
    • “Polysorbate 60 may cause rare irritation in sensitive skin; trace 1,4-dioxane is regulated.”
  • Becker, L. C., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2018). “Safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol.” International Journal of Toxicology, 37(Suppl 2), 5S–16S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818777630
    • “Palm-derived cetearyl alcohol raises sustainability concerns unless RSPO-certified.”
  • Obendorf, S. K., Lemley, A. T., Hedge, A., Kline, A. A., Tan, K., & Dokuchayeva, T. (2006). “Distribution of 1,4-dioxane from processing of polyester fibers.” Environmental Science & Technology, 40(6), 2008–2013. https://doi.org/10.1021/es051711b
    • “Ethoxylation in polysorbate production may introduce trace 1,4-dioxane, though at safe levels.”
  • Harry, R. G., & Rieger, M. M. (2000). Harry’s Cosmeticology (8th ed.). Chemical Publishing Co.
    • “Emulsifying Wax NF is a processed emulsifier, not a natural wax; supplier variations exist.”
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