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Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50)
Naturally Derived
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50) is a cationic emulsifying wax and quaternary ammonium salt derived from rapeseed oil (also known as colza oil), commonly used as a conditioning agent, emulsifier, and thickener in cosmetic formulations. The BTMS-50 variant typically consists of 50% active Behentrimonium Methosulfate blended with 50% cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols) or cetyl alcohol, and sometimes includes butylene glycol for improved solubility and performance. It is prized in hair and skincare products for its ability to soften, detangle, moisturize, and stabilize emulsions by binding positively charged ions to negatively charged surfaces like hair or skin, while also providing antistatic and hydrating properties.
What is it Made of?
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50) is a quaternary ammonium salt derived from rapeseed oil (also known as colza oil), where erucic acid is extracted, hydrogenated, and chemically reacted to form the compound; the BTMS-50 formulation typically consists of 50% active Behentrimonium Methosulfate blended with 50% cetearyl alcohol (a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohols) and, in some versions, butylene glycol for enhanced solubility and conditioning.
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- Overall Formulation: BTMS-50 is typically a 50/50 blend of the active ingredient Behentrimonium Methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol, creating a cationic emulsifying wax in pastille form for use in cosmetics; some variations include 1-3% butylene glycol for improved solubility, with active content ranging from 48-51% Behentrimonium Methosulfate and 49-52% fatty alcohols.
- 50% Active Behentrimonium Methosulfate:
- Chemical Structure: A quaternary ammonium salt with the molecular formula C26H57NO4S (or C25H54N·CH3O4S), specifically N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium methosulfate, featuring a long C22 carbon chain for conditioning properties.
- Derivation Process: Extracted from rapeseed oil (Brassica napus, native to Europe and Asia); erucic acid (C22 unsaturated fatty acid) is isolated, hydrogenated to form saturated behenic acid, then reacted with trimethylamine and dimethyl sulfate (or methosulfuric acid) to create the quaternary compound.
- Role in Blend: Provides the primary cationic charge for emulsification, conditioning, and anti-static effects, making it the “active” component that binds to negatively charged surfaces like skin or hair.
- 50% Cetearyl Alcohol:
- Chemical Composition: A mixture of fatty alcohols, typically 25-35% cetyl alcohol (hexadecan-1-ol, C16H34O) and 60-75% stearyl alcohol (octadecan-1-ol, C18H38O), with an overall formula around C34H72O2; some BTMS-50 variants use primarily cetyl alcohol instead of the full cetearyl blend.
- Derivation Process: Sourced from vegetable oils like palm kernel oil or coconut oil; fatty acids (palmitic for cetyl, stearic for stearyl) are liberated through transesterification or hydrolysis, distilled, and then hydrogenated (reduced) to form the alcohols; often RSPO-certified for sustainability.
- Role in Blend: Acts as a co-emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer, enhancing the texture and stability of emulsions while providing emollient properties without the cationic charge.
- Optional Additives (in Some Versions): Includes butylene glycol (C4H10O2, 1-3%) derived from petrochemical or fermentation processes, added to improve solubility, reduce viscosity, and enhance the conditioning feel; not present in all formulations, such as glycol-free versions.
Best Skin Type for Using It:
BTMS-50 is best suited for dry, mature, or normal skin types in skincare due to its moisturizing and conditioning effects:
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- Dry/Dehydrated Skin: Provides deep conditioning and moisture retention without feeling heavy.
- Mature skin: Helps soften and smooth, supporting elasticity in aging skin.
- Normal skin: Enhances overall texture and feel without causing imbalance.
- Sensitive skin: Generally gentle and non-irritating when used in appropriate concentrations.
Avoid:
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- Acne-prone/oily skin, or young skin (especially under 30), as it may contribute to breakouts or skin issues.
Benefits of Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50)
BTMS-50 offers conditioning and softening benefits by binding gently to the skin’s surface for a silky, non-heavy feel:
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- Conditioning and softening: Binds to the skin’s surface for a silky, smooth feel without heaviness.
- Emulsification: Acts as a mild stabilizer to blend oil and water phases in formulations like lotions and creams.
- Texture enhancement: Improves product application for a luxurious, non-greasy finish.
- Anti-static properties: Reduces friction or flyaways, beneficial in body products near hair.
- Moisturizing support: Helps retain hydration by forming a gentle barrier on the skin.
Pros and Cons of Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50)
Pros:
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- Naturally derived from rapeseed oil, making it a plant-based option that’s gentle and non-irritating for most users.
- Excellent conditioning and emulsifying properties that create stable, silky textures in products like lotions and creams.
- Low hazard rating (EWG score of 1-2) and suitable for sensitive skin when used appropriately.
- Versatile for improving skin feel without greasiness, enhancing overall product elegance.
Cons:
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- Can potentially cause breakouts or irritation in acne-prone, oily, or younger skin types due to its occlusive nature.
- Some formulations include butylene glycol, which may not meet certain clean beauty standards or could be a sensitizer for some individuals.
- Primarily optimized for hair care, so its skincare benefits may be secondary and less pronounced compared to dedicated skin ingredients.
- Cationic charge might interact poorly with certain anionic ingredients in complex formulations, requiring careful blending.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50) excels in skincare as a conditioning agent that binds to the skin’s surface, delivering a silky, softened texture without heaviness or greasiness. It serves as an effective emulsifier, stabilizing oil-in-water formulations in products like lotions and creams for improved consistency and application. Additionally, it provides moisturizing benefits by forming a gentle barrier that helps retain hydration, while its anti-static properties reduce friction for a smoother overall feel.
Disclaimer:
The information in this blog post is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical or dermatological advice. Always consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare provider before using products containing Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50), especially if you have sensitive, oily, acne-prone, or compromised skin (e.g., eczema, rosacea), are pregnant, or have pre-existing medical conditions. Individual results may vary, and while Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50) is generally well-tolerated, some users may experience allergic reactions, irritation, or pore-clogging, particularly with oily/acne-prone skin or improper formulation. Patch testing is strongly recommended before use, especially for sensitive or allergy-prone skin or new products. Avoid applying to broken or inflamed skin, and use high-quality, sustainably sourced Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50) to minimize environmental impacts and ensure purity. Store products in a cool, dark place to prevent degradation. The author is not liable for any adverse effects resulting from the use of Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS-50) based on this information. Claims are based on peer-reviewed scientific research, but efficacy and safety depend on formulation, concentration, and individual skin type.
