Henna (Lawsonia Inermis)

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about henna (Lawsonia inermis). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

Important: In the United States, henna is an FDA-approved color additive for coloring hair only. It is not approved for use on the skin, eyebrows, or eyelashes. ORY^® never uses “black henna,” which is often adulterated with p-phenylenediamine (PPD) and can cause severe allergic reactions.

1. General Description and Role

Verification: Supported. FDA lists henna as a color additive approved for coloring hair, with required label warnings. The European SCCS assessed henna for hair-dye use at up to 1.4% lawsone.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2190 — Henna (approved color additive for coloring hair only; not for use on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin; required label warnings). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2190
    • What it shows: FDA color additive listing (hair only).
  • European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2013). Opinion on Lawsonia inermis (henna) (C169), SCCS/1511/13 (hair-dye use of henna powder with up to 1.4% lawsone). https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_140.pdf
    • What it shows: SCCS opinion on henna hair dye.

2. Composition and Production

Verification: Supported. Henna’s chemistry is well documented. Some commercial henna has been found to contain PPD and heavy metals, so ORY^® buys only certified pure, PPD-free, body-art-quality henna.

Citations:

• • Semwal, R. B., Semwal, D. K., Combrinck, S., Cartwright-Jones, C., & Viljoen, A. (2014). Lawsonia inermis L. (henna): Ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 155(1), 80–103. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Lawsonia%20inermis%20L.%20(henna)%3A%20ethnobotanical%2C%20phytochemical%20and%20pharmacological%20aspects
    • What it shows: Review of henna chemistry.
  • Kang, I. J., & Lee, M. H. (2006). Quantification of para-phenylenediamine and heavy metals in henna dye. Contact Dermatitis, 55(1), 26–29. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0105-1873.2006.00845.x
    • What it shows: Testing of PPD and metals in henna products.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Verification: Supported. FDA has not approved henna for use on skin, and an FDA import alert covers henna intended for skin. ORY^® uses henna in skin-contact products only as a natural colorant in true soap.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Temporary tattoos, henna/mehndi, and “black henna”: Fact sheet (henna is approved only as a hair dye; “black henna” often contains p-phenylenediamine; import alert for henna intended for skin). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/temporary-tattoos-henna-mehndi-and-black-henna-fact-sheet
    • What it shows: FDA fact sheet.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2190 — Henna (approved color additive for coloring hair only; not for use on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin; required label warnings). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2190
    • What it shows: FDA color additive listing.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Verification: Supported. Lawsone binds to keratin; the coating adds a thicker feel and shine. Henna can loosen curls and feel drying with repeated use.

Citations:

• • Semwal, R. B., Semwal, D. K., Combrinck, S., Cartwright-Jones, C., & Viljoen, A. (2014). Lawsonia inermis L. (henna): Ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 155(1), 80–103. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Lawsonia%20inermis%20L.%20(henna)%3A%20ethnobotanical%2C%20phytochemical%20and%20pharmacological%20aspects
    • What it shows: Review.
  • Robbins, C. R. (2012). Chemical and physical behavior of human hair (5th ed.). Springer (reference book). https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0
    • What it shows: Reference text on hair.

5. Benefits

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Reviews describe antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity in lab and animal studies. Those are not cosmetic claims, and ORY^® does not claim henna treats dandruff, infections, or scalp conditions.

Citations:

• • Semwal, R. B., Semwal, D. K., Combrinck, S., Cartwright-Jones, C., & Viljoen, A. (2014). Lawsonia inermis L. (henna): Ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 155(1), 80–103. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Lawsonia%20inermis%20L.%20(henna)%3A%20ethnobotanical%2C%20phytochemical%20and%20pharmacological%20aspects
    • What it shows: Review (mostly lab and animal studies).

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Verification: Supported, with caveats. ORY^® does not use henna in skincare masks or makeup, or for brow or lash tinting. Soap colored with henna must be true soap (no cosmetic claims) to fall outside FDA’s color additive rules.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2190 — Henna (approved color additive for coloring hair only; not for use on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin; required label warnings). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2190
    • What it shows: Approved use: hair only.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
    • What it shows: FDA soap definition.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
    • What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Verification: Supported. Supported by FDA listing and SCCS review.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2190 — Henna (approved color additive for coloring hair only; not for use on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin; required label warnings). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2190
    • What it shows: FDA listing.
  • European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2013). Opinion on Lawsonia inermis (henna) (C169), SCCS/1511/13 (hair-dye use of henna powder with up to 1.4% lawsone). https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_140.pdf
    • What it shows: SCCS opinion.

8. Cons

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

• • Hair only (U.S.). Not approved for skin, brows, or lashes.
  • “Black henna.” PPD adulteration can cause severe allergy.
  • G6PD deficiency and children. Risk of serious hemolysis.
  • Permanent. Hard to remove; may affect later chemical services.
  • Messy. Stains skin, fabric, and surfaces.

Citations:

• • de Groot, A. C. (2013). Side-effects of henna and semi-permanent ‘black henna’ tattoos: A full review. Contact Dermatitis, 69(1), 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.12074
    • What it shows: Review of henna side effects.
  • Raupp, P., Hassan, J. A., Varughese, M., & Kristiansson, B. (2001). Henna causes life threatening haemolysis in glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency. Archives of Disease in Childhood, 85(5), 411–412. https://doi.org/10.1136/adc.85.5.411
    • What it shows: Hemolysis case report.

9. Safety Notes

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

• • Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
  • Do not use on children or on anyone with G6PD deficiency.
  • Never use products labeled “black henna.”
  • Do not use in the area of the eye or on cut or abraded scalp.
  • Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
  • For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
  • If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2190 — Henna (approved color additive for coloring hair only; not for use on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin; required label warnings). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2190
    • What it shows: Required warnings.
  • Raupp, P., Hassan, J. A., Varughese, M., & Kristiansson, B. (2001). Henna causes life threatening haemolysis in glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency. Archives of Disease in Childhood, 85(5), 411–412. https://doi.org/10.1136/adc.85.5.411
    • What it shows: G6PD.
  • de Groot, A. C. (2013). Side-effects of henna and semi-permanent ‘black henna’ tattoos: A full review. Contact Dermatitis, 69(1), 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.12074
    • What it shows: Allergy.

10. Product-line notes

• • ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
  • ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
  • ORY^® Handmade Soap: Henna is used only as a colorant in true cold-process soap. Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
  • ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

• • de Groot, A. C. (2013). Side-effects of henna and semi-permanent ‘black henna’ tattoos: A full review. Contact Dermatitis, 69(1), 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.12074
  • Kang, I. J., & Lee, M. H. (2006). Quantification of para-phenylenediamine and heavy metals in henna dye. Contact Dermatitis, 55(1), 26–29. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0105-1873.2006.00845.x
  • Raupp, P., Hassan, J. A., Varughese, M., & Kristiansson, B. (2001). Henna causes life threatening haemolysis in glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency. Archives of Disease in Childhood, 85(5), 411–412. https://doi.org/10.1136/adc.85.5.411
  • Robbins, C. R. (2012). Chemical and physical behavior of human hair (5th ed.). Springer (reference book). https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0
  • Semwal, R. B., Semwal, D. K., Combrinck, S., Cartwright-Jones, C., & Viljoen, A. (2014). Lawsonia inermis L. (henna): Ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 155(1), 80–103. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Lawsonia%20inermis%20L.%20(henna)%3A%20ethnobotanical%2C%20phytochemical%20and%20pharmacological%20aspects

Government and regulatory sources

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 73.2190 — Henna (approved color additive for coloring hair only; not for use on the eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin; required label warnings). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-A/part-73/subpart-C/section-73.2190
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Temporary tattoos, henna/mehndi, and “black henna”: Fact sheet (henna is approved only as a hair dye; “black henna” often contains p-phenylenediamine; import alert for henna intended for skin). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/temporary-tattoos-henna-mehndi-and-black-henna-fact-sheet
  • European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. (2013). Opinion on Lawsonia inermis (henna) (C169), SCCS/1511/13 (hair-dye use of henna powder with up to 1.4% lawsone). https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_140.pdf
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20